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Canadian Urbanism Uncovered

Old Gables and Pizza Slices: 648-656 Spadina Avenue

Photographer Peter MacCallum documents the evolution of a commercial strip that has fed generations of university students

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General view of 648-656 Spadina Avenue, 2020

General view of 648-656 Spadina Avenue, 2020

As an architectural photographer, I am always keen to record surviving fragments of older streetscapes in areas of downtown Toronto that have been subject to intensive redevelopment. From experience, I know that this type of documentation can serve as a mnemonic device, reinforcing viewers’ personal experiences of the city.

I photographed the commercial block at 648-656 Spadina in October 2020 expressly to show its unusual, and partially accidental massing of architectural forms. Although three of the buildings in the block are more than a century old, they form an unlikely unit with two recent interventions, one of them Modernist and the other Brutalist. The ensemble can be seen as having a prominent three-storefront central element, buttressed at each end by recessed structures.

The former RBC Financial branch at 648 Spadina opened in 1979. It replaced a commercial/residential building that had occupied the corner since 1880.

New Royal Bank branch, 648 Spadina, 1979
New Royal Bank branch, 648 Spadina, 1979
Alexandra Studios commissioned photographs
Toronto Archives, Fonds 1257, Series 1057, Item 425
Official opening of Royal Bank branch, 1979
Official opening of Royal Bank branch, 1979
Alexandra Studios commissioned photographs
Toronto Archives, Fonds 1257, Series 1057, Item 433
Corner of Spadina Avenue and Harbord Street looking north-west, 1972
Corner of Spadina Avenue and Harbord Street looking north-west, 1972
Toronto Planning Board photo
Toronto Archives, Fonds 2032, Series 841, File 55, Item 19

The original block of 650-654 Spadina harmonized with the domestic architecture of the adjacent Annex neighbourhood. However, in 2013, 652 Spadina was replaced by an efficient concrete box housing a retail space with two apartments above. One of the apartments is currently for rent at $3,200 per month.

Detail, apartment balconies, 652 Spadina, 2024
Detail, apartment balconies, 652 Spadina, 2024

Over the last century, Spadina Avenue itself has changed radically. Before the roadway was widened in 1948, the section south of Bloor was a boulevard with wide verges, mature trees, and continuous rows of houses and shops. The oldest buildings in this group, 650, 654 and 656 Spadina, are all that remains of the original west side streetscape between Harbord Street and Sussex Avenue.

Roadway 1836, Sept. 3-48, Spadina Ave. N. from 150’ S. of Harbord St.
Roadway 1836, Sept. 3 – 1948, Spadina Ave. N. from 150’ S. of Harbord St.
Toronto Archives, s0372_ss0058_it1836
Roadway 2030, Nov. 9-49, Spadina Ave. L. North from Approx 150’ S. of Harbord after widening
Roadway 2030, Nov. 9 – 1949, Spadina Ave. L. North from Approx 150’ S. of Harbord after widening
Toronto Archives, s0372_ss0058_it2030

The commercial character of this block has also changed. In 1973, its storefronts housed a variety of businesses: Liberation Garments Inc., Lee Duck Laundry, Ben’s Barber Shop, Student Elite Cleaners, John’s Hardware, and the Maple Leaf Cigar Store.

City of Toronto planning photo. West side of Spadina just north of Harbord Street, ca. 1980
City of Toronto planning photo. West side of Spadina just north of Harbord Street, ca. 1980
Toronto Archives, Series 1465, File 440, Item 8
Untitled City of Toronto planning photo. (from roof of U of T Athletic Centre, 55 Harbord Street), ca. 1980
Untitled City of Toronto planning photo. (from roof of U of T Athletic Centre, 55 Harbord Street), ca. 1985
Toronto Archives, Series 1465, File 440, Item 8

Currently, each of the storefronts advertises a takeout restaurant that is just about to open, is currently open, or has recently gone out of business.

Sidewalk view of 650-656 Spadina, 2024
Sidewalk view of 650-656 Spadina, 2024

The concentration of restaurant activity at this corner can be seen to parallel the relentless expansion of the nearby main campus of the University of Toronto. Currently, Cora Pizza at 656 Spadina seems to be a favourite with students.

Cora Pizza, 656 Spadina, 2024
Cora Pizza, 656 Spadina, 2024

I could imagine a fictionalized version of this eatery living on as a setting in novels and feature films long after it has been replaced by a condominium, which will perhaps be named “Spadina Commons” or “Harbord Heights Residences”.

As I discovered recently, the appearance of these building and the roster of functioning restaurants can change almost overnight. At the end of September, 2024, I took a supplementary group of photos of the storefronts showing the existing signage. Now, only a month later, my images are out of date.

Workers have already installed new signage on the facades of the former RBC bank building at No. 648, and are renovating its interior for the anticipated opening of the culinary triple bill of Shushitajoy, Food Kingdom and Myungrang Hotdog. Meanwhile, the defacement of its main facade by “street art” has spread significantly, spilling onto the windows.

Former RBC Financial branch, 648 Spadina 2024
Former RBC Financial branch, 648 Spadina, 2024

Simultaneously, the facade of 656 Spadina has been painted red, and a new sign denotes Prime Döner Shawarma. Next door, the decrepit upper facade of No. 654 has been renovated. The cladding of ceramic fish-scale tiles has been replaced by black aluminum siding, and the arched and bracketed window frame has been squared off.

For me, the most interesting element in this group of buildings is the modernist corner bank, whose architect succeeded in integrating a contemporary design into an existing nineteenth century streetscape. It is hard to imagine such a modest structure being designed so well today.

Detail, upper facade, 650 Spadina, 2024
Detail, upper facade, 650 Spadina, 2024
Detail of gable, 654 Spadina, 2024
Detail of gable, 654 Spadina, 2024
Rear entrance, 654 Spadina, 2024
Rear entrance, 654 Spadina, 2024
General view of 648-656 Spadina Avenue, 2020
General view of 648-656 Spadina Avenue, 2020 (click for expanded view)

Photographs by Peter MacCallum unless otherwise indicated.

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