A few weeks ago, I made a quick post about a short trip I was taking out west to Calgary and Vancouver. I received a handful of good tips from Spacing Toronto readers on neighbourhoods and urban-ish type things to check out (a post or two from that trip will be coming shortly). I’m off on another trip in a few weeks and I thought it would be worthwhile asking again.
This time, my trip takes me to a handful of great European cities: Copenhagen in Denmark, Malmචand Gothenburg in Sweden, and Hamburg in Germany. I’m also stopping over in Reykjavik, Iceland for 4 days thanks to the deal I got on my Iceland Air plane ticket. It seems that since their economy bottomed-out in the late fall of 2008, there is a real need to have foreigners visit Iceland. Things are cheap there now, or at least they are in relative terms to Iceland’s extremely high cost of living.
I’m spending a total of 22 days days overseas, with the majority spent in Copenhagen and Malmo (10 days). I’m interested in all things related to transit, bike, walking, architecture, urban design, waterfront, and sustainability. You know, all the stuff we’re fascinated with here at Spacing. I’ve done my research on these places and there are obivous things I’m going to hit (such as the pedestrian malls and wicked bike infrastructure in Copenhagen), but I can easily miss great destinations overlooked by guide books and travel blogs.
Please leave me suggestions in the comment section. I hope to make numerous blog posts from these cities, so the more topics I have to cover the better it is for all of us. If you think I should meet-up with someone in particular in these cities (because of their knowledge or specialty) you can also email me directly at matt@spacing.ca. Thanks in advance.
photo of Copenhagen Strà¸get pedestrian mall by Pete Cassellini
16 comments
My fiance and I visited Copenhagen in Dec. 2007. The most useful thing we found was a free guidebook called “Playtime – Guide to Copenhagen”. It is produced by a company called “Use It” (www.use-it.info) that is geared toward young travellers on a budget, but I think everyone should “use it”! The guidebook is full of amazing D-I-Y walking tours and loads of info.
Unfortunately, I just visited the Use It website for Denmark (www.useit.dk) and it looks like they are no longer operating! That really sucks. Fortunately, I still have my copy and would be more than happy to give it to you. It really made our stay in Copenhagen an adventure.
I’ve been to Iceland twice, the most recently last June, and really enjoyed it there. If you’re travelling with someone else, I suggest renting a car and heading out of Reykjavik for at least a day: we did one day doing our own “Golden Circle” tour rather than taking the bus trip, since that allowed us to stop and picnic where we wanted, and we spent two days staying at a small guesthouse in Vik, along the southern coast, which allows us to explore several of the sites close to there without having to drive back to Reykjavik every night. If you’re on your own, then take the Golden Circle bus tour that takes you to many of the major sites close to Reykjavik in one day. Don’t miss the Blue Lagoon, a large mineral hot springs spa, it’s amazing. My pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/skemsley/sets/72157605866952496/
Feel free to email me directly if you want more information.
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is a beautiful art museum located on the waterfront in Humlebà ¦k, 35 km north of Copenhagen. The property began as a summer estate (the owner had a wife named Louise) and was converted in art museum in the 1950’s. Great effort was made to make the architecture complement the landscape.
PS: The museum is easily accessible by the coastline passenger train. It’s just a short walk from the station.
Hop the train from Copenhagen, and head to the boardwalk in Malmo. Doesn’t matter what the temperature is, if the sun is out, so are the people. Just walk around. The whole park/boardwalk is connected, and it’s really amazing what some smart planning can do. Apparently, Cristiana (an artist co-op/hippie village that used to be an army base) in Copenhagen is no more, but an afternoon spent there (if it in fact still exists) is worth it to.
Lucky you! Copenhagen is one of my favourite cities. The Danish Design Centre is excellent. Tivoli Gardens is interesting for the way it fits into downtown (apparently many adults buy seasons’ passes in large part to be able to use it as a shortcut). Climbing the tower of Vor Frelsers Kirke is worth it for the view; heading out to the Little Mermaid isn’t worth it, given the hordes of tourists.
No time for Stockholm? It’s Old Town is great for walking and photos, and the subway stations (which look like caves) are very unusual.
Oh, and try the street meat. There’s a hot dog surrounded by mashed potato and wrapped in a flatbread that’s surprisingly good.
Hey Matt,
In the straits between Copenhagen and Malmo is a very large wind farm that is visible from the shore of either city — evidence that off-shore can in fact co-exist with large urban centres (contrary to the assertions of the Scarborough Bluff protection brigade).
And in Copenhagen, there’s a very good, accessible city museum that follows the evolution of Copenhagen from prehistoric times through to the present. Reminded me that the City of Toronto sorely lacks such an institution.
JL
In Copenhagen, definitely ride the new metro line south of the city centre. It takes you through the new development, and at à ˜restad station, there is the new Fields Shopping Mall (indoor). Yes, Copenhagen is suburbanizing, North American style. Along the way, there are beautiful looking residential high-rises, but very widely spaced apart.
I love the City, but I do fear it may make some of the mistakes that we have (in terms of suburbanization). But its definitely worth a visit to this area to see for yourself.
Mike
Hey Matthew
I am friend of Dylan Reid and an ex member of Architecture for Humanity Toronto. Am now living in Cph. Have been here for the last year working for Hausenberg (hausenberg.dk),a consultancy firm that focuses upon user driven urban development. If you’d like, you are welcome to contact me while you are here. I would be able to show you around and give you a bit of an inside scoop of the arc, urban planning and design scene.
KL
Hamburg is such a beautiful modern city. Make sure to check out all the construction going on — they’re practically doubling the city’s size, and from scratch.
And when the sun sets, it would almost be a shame to miss the Reeperbahn, a frenetic touristy sex-driven mile, and the seedy underbelly of this modern, picturesque city. Just off it is the Herbertstrasse, which is a small block of Amsterdam-style red-light dens, with a huge gate on either side, covered in tobacco ads. This is not something you’ll find in Toronto. Walk through the gate, to see their red-light district. What’s most fascinating: women are absolutely not allowed. This is a men-only street; and any women who dare enter will leave much dirtier and most certainly unhappy. This is hardly the stuff for a tourbus stop, but it offers an interesting insight on one aspect of Hamburg’s urban design.
Hamburg – never been to Herbertstraà Ÿe obviously. All I’ve ever seen are the fat walls on one side. The Reeperbahn itself is very touristy and packed at night. If you walk down Reeperbahn men will try to lure you into various sex show-/ table or lap dance clubs and girls will try to seel their services. I would suggest checking the Reeperbahn out during the day as well. Quite a difference.
The construction is happening in the new Hafen City. Doubling the downtown in size, not really the whole city. Lots of office and condo buildings. And the new Opera house on top of an old storage building. First they had to hollow out the building. Quite interesting. Museums, university and a main shopping street are also planned. Go to Kesselhaus to check out a large model of what is supposed to happen. And there seem to be lots of new info kiosks around.
Would be interested in what you think of that whole thing.
http://www.hafencity.com
Hamburg consists of several neighbourhoods. If you want to check out post war housing, Barmbek is a good bet. For a more upscale and picturesque turn of the century buildings go to Eimsbà ¼ttel. If you look at the map, Ottensen stands out with a whole different street pattern. Altona (of which Ottensen is a part, as well as the red light district around the Reeperbahn) used to be a separate town until 1938.
Personally I love the Elbe, watching the ships and indutrie on the other side of the river. That’s great to do from various parks along the Elbchaussee or from the beaches below. (Favourite spot for BBQs in summer.)
Book recommendation: The Kurt Wallander series set in Sweden by Henning Mankell.
Hi,
I lived in Denmark for 4 months.
Be sure to check out the Royal Library in Copenhagen. It is my favourite building there in a city of beautiful buildings.
Also, the visit to Louisana as mentioned above is definitely worth it.
I would also agree that the Little Mermaid is not worth it, its out of the way and underwhelming. If you want to travel outside Copenhagen, I would recommend a day trip to Roskilde to see the cathedral and Viking museum.
Be sure to try the Danish version of street meat – the poelse at one of the many poelse stands.
Have a great trip.
Siobhan
I traveled through Copenhagen and was really impressed with the people and the city, I’m sure you’ll enjoy your time there.
I would highly recommend Christiania as an important place to go see. The area is built on an old military base and is part of the 17th century fortifications of the city. More importantly however it is a commune that claims autonomy from Denmark. Upon entering, a sign announces that you are ‘now leaving the European Union.’ In the absence of any other economy there is definitely a drug culture around place but its still fascinating to explore and a pretty unique urban space. happy travels
Definitely avoid the museum of sex in copenhagen. I went there in 2004 hoping to see ancient mummies having sex. Totally disappointed.
Hey Matt,
I lived in Copenhagen and can safely say that wherever you walk around in the central city (especially around the old port area of Christianshavn) you’ll see some great architectural, urbanism and city life.
Areas you might not naturally stumble through: Sydhavn area, south of the central train station along Istegade. Used to be home to the (not very nice) gay “village” and drug dens, but has gentrified a bit and there’s now an interesting mix.
Noerrebrogade goes through Noerrebro, an area that has been recently known for riots and disenfranchised immigrant youth. It’s a culturally-vibrant street (the closest thing in Scandinavia to multiculturalism) and they’ve recently closed the street to car traffic; just bikes and buses.
There’s also a great contemporary art gallery up the coast called Louisiania. Great architecture and beautiful location.
Have a great trip!